Istanbul has two major tourist attractions that will take almost a full day out of your holiday: a visit to one or more of the Princes’ Islands and a boat tour on the Bosphorus. People rightfully ask me if it’s worth sacrificing one or two days of their often already short stay in Istanbul. That is a tough question to answer and is completely based on personal preferences. So let me explain what you can expect from a day trip to the Princes’ Island, and how to best go about it.
What Are the Princes’ Islands of Istanbul
The Princes’ Islands (Kızıl Adalar or just Adalar) are nine relatively small islands in the Sea of Marmara. They evolved from a place of exile during the Byzantine era, to a popular destination for tourists and Istanbulites alike to escape the hectic city life for a day. Of those nine islands, only four of them are open to the public: Büyükada, the biggest and most popular, Burgazada, Heybeliada, and Kınalıada.
Why Visit the Princes’ Islands – Features
The main feature of any of the Princes’ Islands is the sound of … silence. All fuel-driven vehicles are banned, making the islands an oasis of peace and quiet. The main transportation means are bicycles, electric buses, and electric taxis. The latter replaced the typical horse-drawn carriages in 2020. The only sounds you’ll hear are bicycle bells and footsteps.
But that’s not the only feature that makes the Princes’ Islands unique. You’ll find yourself walking or riding through narrow streets flanked by either untouched pine forests or fine, wooden Victorian cottages. How is that for a unique fin-de-siècle flashback?
Guided Princes Islands Tours
By boat, that goes without saying. But there are different ferries to choose from. There are the sea buses (fast ferries) operated by IDO, and the regular ferries operated by Şehir Hatları.
Both ferry types depart from Kabataş — easily accessible with public transportation. From Taksim you can take the F1 Kabataş-Taksim funicular or from Sultanahmet you can get on the T1 Kabataş-Bağcılar tramway.
The sea buses are the fastest option, but they operate at irregular times and focus on locals commuting to work and back. If it stops at all the islands, the trip will last for 55 minutes maximum and sets you back for 10 TL (7,80 TL with the Istanbul Kart) per person — one way.
The regular ferries are slower and can take as much as 100 minutes, but they are your best and safest option. They are cheaper (only 5 TL per person, or 3,85 TL with the Istanbul Kart) and make more runs back and forth.
Take my advice! If you plan to visit the islands, make sure you get on one of the first ferries to the islands on any given day. You’ll beat the (local) crowd to the islands — and check upon arrival when the last ferry departs back to Istanbul that day! Although some islands have nice hotels, you don’t want to miss the last ferry. Then, spend as much time as you want on (one of) the Princes’ Islands, and return to Istanbul with whichever ferry you prefer.
The ferry timetables change according to the seasons, so make sure to check the exact departure dates of the sea buses (fast ferries) or the conventional ferries. (Look for Adalar or Island)
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Buyukada attractions
Despite the “Big” name, the Big Island – Buyukada – is small enough for an adventurous and devoted to see it all in one full day. Make use of the horse-drawn carriage, a bike and your pair of feet to explore the island to the fullest.
The Big Island has two peaks – Jesus Hill (Isa Tepesi in Turkish) and Supreme Hill (Yucetepe in Turkish). Both peaks have monasteries. Third monastery is on the east coast of the Buyukada, close to the Supreme Hill.
Luna Park Square is the main social area in the middle of Buyukada with bike rents, carriages and shops. Easily reach monasteries from the Luna Park by renting a horse-drawn carriage.
Clock Square is an area with a large clock tower right by the shore of the island. This clock will probably be the first thing you see as you approach the Buyukada.
Fayton Square is another meeting point in Buyukada with churches and local shops.
Monastery of St. George Koudonas
Monastery of St. George is also known as Aya Yorgi Kilisesi (Turkish) is a Greek Orthodox Cathedral located on top of the Yucetepe peak.
The church and monastery is believed to be founded in 963. One of the legends says that a shepherd heard a sound of ringing bells from the ground. He dag into where the sounds came from and found an icon of St. George. Koudonas from Greek translates as “ringing bells”. Visit the church for more legends and miracle stories.
Be prepared to climb uphill for about 1 km. The hike is pretty and has places for a rest. Your efforts will be rewarded by a beautiful Christian construction of 6th century. Istanbul view from this church and monastery is impressive. You will see the island’s forest, the sea and other near-by Princes’ Islands of Istanbul.
(!) Replenish your energy for your return trip at Yucetepe Kir Gazinosu restaurant near the church. Open from 10:00 am till 24:00 midnight. Prices are average. Menu includes Turkish cuisine, cold and alcoholic beverages.
Monastery of the Transfiguration
Monastery of the Transfiguration, known as Hagios Sotiros Christou in Greek, is located on the Jesus hill (Isa Tepesi) in Buyukada. Byzantine Emperor Manuel I Comnenus mentions the monastery in 1158.
The building today is preserved only partially. However you can see carved wooden iconostasis, for example. The entrance doors referred to as “Beautiful Gates” (Oraia Pylai in Greek) have eight icons in their panels, some dating back to 18th century.
Greek orphanage
In 1903 an orphanage was opened close to the Monastery of Transfiguration on the Isa Tepesi in Buyukada. Today the construction is abandoned but still serves as a landmark of Buyukada due to its size.
The largest wooden construction of Europe was originally built in 1898 to become a hotel with a casino on the premises. Ottoman Sultan Abdul Hamid II overruled the project which contradicted Muslim culture. Later, a Greek woman Eleni Zarifi, a widow of a banker, purchased the building for public needs and made it a Greek orphanage. Sultan Abdul Hamid II donated 146 pieces of gold to the establishment which served till 1964.
Hesed Le Avraam Synagogue
Hesed Le Avraam Synagoge on Buyukada of Princes’ Islands in Istanbul was built in 1903. It is located in Yali neighborhood, one block away from Zagnos Pasa Avenue. Today the synagogue is open for ceremonies only during summer months. Call +90 212 243 51 66 to make an appointment if you want to visit the synagogue.
Adalar Museum
Adalar Museum is the museum of history and geology of Princes’ Islands in Istanbul located in Buyukada (The Big Island). The museum was founded in 2010 in an old school building and a nearby unused helicopter hangar. These areas gave the establishment two separate locations for exhibitions – Cinar Museum Grounds and St. Nicholas Hangar Museum site. Dive into stories of the islands through objects, pictures, movies and archival records.
Sections at Adalar Museum include information about natural history of the islands and first human traces, architecture and literature, traditions and rituals.
Location: Hangar Muze alani, Aya Nikola Mevkii, Buyukada, Istanbul
Price: 5 Turkish Liras.
Museum is closed on Mondays.
Roman Catholic Church of San Pacifico
The Roman Catholic Church of San Pacifico was built in 1866. Recognize the building by its neo-Gothic architectural style and a wooden roof. Location: intersections of Lala Hatun and Yeni Sokak streets.
Metropolitan Church of St. Dimitros
The Metropolitan Church of St. Dimitros (Hagios Dimitrios in Greek) was built in 1860 by architect Fistikos Kalfa. This is a large, well preserved and an impressive church in Buyukada with an altar and two chapals. Location: Corner of Zanos Pasa Avenue and Alacam street.
Church of the Panagia
In 1793 the Church of the Panagia was built at the corner of Fayton Square in Buyukada of Princes’ Islands of Istanbul. This was a rebuild of the original church from the year 1735 which stood on the Isa Tepesi near the Greek cemetery.